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Coda |
Diaspora and coincidence
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The glories of ancient Sparta were inscribed in blood, not in poetry or art. The ruins that still exist are scanty, uninspiring, overgrown and little visited. The modern city too is a drab place, laid out on a grid. If you have travelled to Sparta in the hope of recapturing the magical experience of seeing Delphi, Olympia or Athens for the first time, you will be bitterly disappointed. But do not despair yet. A short bus journey will bring you to one of Europe's absolute marvels: the Byzantine city of Mystra. A thousand years after Sparta declined, Mystra was the jewel in the crown of Byzantine civilization. Eventually it became its capital, with a population that exceeded 40 000. When Constantinople fell to the